London Notes

Back in London after a month away—and between jet lag and rediscoveries—here’s what caught my eye lately.

STYLE

Is Luxury Out of Fashion?

There was a time when luxury meant a Dior tote bag, a pair of Gucci loafers, a logo making itself known before you did. That time, it seems, is ending. Too expensive. Too unethical. Too uninspiring. Too confusing. (As the Times neatly put it.)

We may not weep for the extinction of monogrammed wallets or belts embossed with oversized initials. But the question lingers: if this version of luxury vanishes, what will take its place in our collective dreams of extravagance?

Fashion writers, when pressed, tend to murmur the same name: The Row. Its restraint, its obsessive quietness, its outlandish prices. I own a pair of plain, almost featureless The Row trainers, which I bought on sale from Net-a-Porter four years ago. I rarely wear them. They pinch. They also fail to transform anything I wear them with, which, surely, was the point.

As for Phoebe Philo’s new label—beloved in concept, but in practice? I hover on the website, searching for that old jolt of desire from her Celine days. It doesn’t come. The clothes feel remote, speaking to a life I neither recognise nor especially aspire to.

When I look for fashion that feels exclusive—in the way that matters, in the way that resists algorithms and mass marketing—I find myself turning East. Japan. Korea. Places where craftsmanship and a kind of moral clarity still seem to matter.

Seoul Brand July Column | Pina Bausch Dress by Lemaire

From Seoul, I brought home a handful of pieces from July Column, the brainchild of Sooy Park, a Central Saint Martins graduate. Her clothes, made in Korea, draw inspiration from the Confucian Seonbi scholars and contemporary Korean art. They seamlessly integrate historical influences with modern techniques, using traditional pattern cutting and recycled materials. I’m also quietly obsessed with Taiga Takahashi’s unisex silhouettes—fluid denim and brown sweatshirts faded to perfection.

At Kapital, now part of the LVMH family, I rifled through cowboy pastiche before discovering a jacket so perfectly cut it took my breath away.

In Europe, Lemaire’s cerebral, almost stubborn approach is gaining momentum. Their Le Marais boutique has become a kind of pilgrimage for stylists. I haven’t found the perfect piece that fits me yet (though I have my eyes on the Pina Bausch dress), but the devotion in the air is unmistakable.

Meanwhile, in Denmark, The Garment's latest collection—their icy blue dresses, made for long summer nights—feels genuinely covetable.

And because fashion remains fashion, there is always a wild card: the Jacquemus/Timberland collaboration is selling out fast. Boat shoes are not, by any stretch, easy to wear. Still, I would not say no to the sunshine-yellow pair.

ART IN LONDON

Cartier at the V&A

Between jet lag and a sense of disbelief at being back, I made it to the Cartier press opening at the Victoria and Albert Museum. I usually approach these blockbuster shows with mixed feelings, but the sheer splendour of the craftsmanship on display was undeniable. Go for the Maharaja Dhiraj of Patiala’s crown, or for the stripped-back elegance of Jackie’s Tank watch. Stay for the tiaras, and leave feeling faintly as if you’ve wandered through a fairy tale.

At the Serpentine, Giuseppe Penone’s Thoughts in the Roots exhibition offers a quieter form of enchantment. His sculptural trees, reshaped and suspended in time, seem in quiet conversation with the living trees of Kensington Gardens, magnificent in the spring light.

After spending time in Korea, I am particularly interested in the opening of Walk the House at Tate Modern (1 May), an immersive installation by Korean-born, London-based Do Ho Suh. His vast, ghostly structures explore the fragility of home, belonging, and connection—concepts that feel increasingly relevant.

Also on my radar: the reopening of Camden Art Centre, marked by a new exhibition from Turner Prize-winning artist Martin Creed. Hundreds of balloons will fill the former Methodist church, celebrating absurdity, joy, and maybe something heavier underneath.

BOOK

Imperfection

I’ve just finished Perfection, the much-talked-about short satire by Roman-born writer Vincenzo Latronico. Set against the backdrop of 2010s Berlin, it captures the lives of European millennial expats—lives that look perfect on Instagram but feel curiously hollow.

Latronico reflects on the emptiness of “curated” living, drawing inspiration from Georges Perec’s critiques of 1960s consumer culture. It’s a story about a generation living online: friendships forged on Facebook, ideas exchanged on Twitter, and the endless pursuit of the perfect image. But behind the digital façade lie cold Berlin winters, shallow relationships, and depressing Sunday afternoons.

Latronico’s writing is sharp and trenchant (and Sophie Hughes’ English translation is excellent), making it impossible not to recognise the absurdities of modern life. Perfection leaves you longing for something real—something imperfect.

LISTEN

Moon Safari revisited

Moon Safari is one of those iconic 90s albums I played on repeat when I first moved to London. AIR (perhaps standing for Amour, Imagination, and Rêve), the French electro-pop band, became an international sensation, and we were utterly enamoured. Their soundtrack for Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides followed, but after that... not much more. Some hoped for a comeback, a Daft Punk-style resurgence. But it never came.

Fast forward 30 years, and British producer and DJ Vegyn—who wasn’t even born when Moon Safari was first released—has taken on the task of reworking this iconic album. The result? A dream come true. Vegyn, one of the most talented producers of our time (his work on Frank Ocean’s Blonde is proof of that), has delivered an incredibly smooth, innovative reimagining of the album. Titled Blue Moon Safari, it’s a flawless tribute that takes the original to even greater heights.

You can stream the reworked version on Spotify here.

MISSED MILANO?

I missed the Salone del Mobile this year (it seems teapots stole the show), but my Instagram feed was awash with images of Italian interiors from Dimore Studio and evening drinks at Villa Necchi—enough to almost make me want to live like an Italian aristocrat.

Still from Luca Guadagnino’s movie I Am Love